Silence, Wolves and the Wild East: Hiking in Portugal’s Côa Valley
A trek in a remote corner of the Iberian Peninsula brought a writer face-to-face with ancient oaks, rewilding efforts and prehistoric cave art.

© Pablo Blazquez Dominguez/Getty Images

© Pablo Blazquez Dominguez/Getty Images

© Ritzau Scanpix/Sipa USA, via Associated Press